Thailand in a Nutshell
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Thailand as it is known today has its physical existence dated back to 1782, making it one of the oldest countries in the world with the present age of 226 years. The name Thailand has only been adopted in 1939 to replace its former name of Siam (Sa-yam).
The country consists of 76 provinces, grouped into five geographic regions, namely: North, Central, South, East, and Northeast (colloquially referred to as I-San). The capital of the kingdom is Bangkok: the hub for political, commercial, industrial and cultural activities, with the number of residents exceeding 12 millions. Noted, however, that Bangkok is a name given by the western, while local people commonly refer to Bangkok as Krungthep Mahanakorn - or Krungthep for short - a thai word meaning the City of Angel.
Official language in Thailand is Thai, with English being the second language taught in schools and used widely at work. In this era of chinese economic boom as well as the fact that 10% of Thai population are of Chinese descent, chinese is becoming more popular and chinese language schools are not at all difficult to find. I should also add that this youths/teenagers are also eager to learn Korean and Japanese. You can probably even some of them speaking Korean or Japanese on the street. So, Thailand is really a muti-cultural country. If your first point of visit is Bangkok, you won't have difficulties proving that; just visit Center Point or Siam Square and Central World. These are shopping arcades, and you will be briefed of what Bangkok is like and also all sort of fashionable outfit and stuff.
Ok, I think that was short but with enough information to get you started. If you want to know more about particulars in Bangkok. Please have a look at the link on the left, thanks!
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Tourist attraction: worth seeing!
This page briefs you about the history of Thailand, on its formation, past and present stand.
The map on the left (lonelyplanet) shows the present map of Thailand. Shown in the figure are main tourist destinations: Chiangmai, Ayuthaya, Bangkok, Phanom Rung Historical Park, Ko Si Chang, Ko Samet, the well-known Ko Samui, Phuket. More details on each of these places and those not shown in the map can be found below. If you are interested in discovering more about how we come to existence and what Thailand has gone through, which has shaped the country in its present day, read here: History of Thailand
Bangkok
Allow me to first start at Bangkok, somewhat a reasonable starting point as it is the capital of the city and that you will most likely find yourself in Bangkok for your first physical contact with Thailand soil :)
Bangkok, known as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon by the locals, is the capital city of Thailand. It's situated at the Gulf of Thailand, where the Chao Phraya River flows into the sea. Bangkok was inaugurated in 1768 after the burning down of Ayuthaya, the former kingdom prior to Rattanakosin Kingdom - the already 240-year old present day Kingdom. Ayuthaya province is a definite place to visit, not least that it is ranked by "Travel and Leisure" as the best city in the world for the year 2008! On top of that it's only a couple of hours drive or travel by train from Bangkok, very convenient for a day trip or even for an overnight stay. If you're in, browse below for more information.
For now, let me continue a little more about Bangkok and to show you what we have got there for tourists. As the saying goes, "a picture says a thousand words", I shall guide you "briefly" through Bangkok with the help of pictures. Bangkok has an excellent mixture of old's and new's. By old, I mean antiquity in terms of arts and values; By new, I mean mainly shopping centers and places to hang out for entertainment and leisure activities.
Here is the antique view (old-style)
What you see on the left is the Grand Palace.
Below is the modern city (new-style)
Bangkok Skyline
China Town
The tallest building in Thailand: Bai-Yok Tower IINow that you know, albeit so briefly, about Bangkok, you may like to check this page out: Things to do in Bangkok. There you will find plenty of information as to places to visit, dining and entertainment venues.
Ayuthaya
As briefly mentioned in the previous paragraphs, Ayuthaya was the Kingdom preceding Rattanakosin kingdom of the present days. The kingdom of Ayuthaya was a Thai kingdom that existed from 1351 to 1767.
The court of King Narai (1656-1688) had strong links with that of King Louis XIV of France, whose ambassadors compared the city in size and wealth to Paris.
Three pagodas of Wat Phra Si SanphetChiangmai
The next attraction site bring you closer to Thailand in the old days; Chiangmai is situated in a region that was once a host of former Thai kingdom. ( Read more )
Pattaya
Phuket
Things to do in Bangkok
I have decided to divide this section into three sections, according to my own rationality :) Hope that doesn't bother you, and hope you may like to take adventure and let me be your virtual guide, or pre-guide, as you like it.
So, my raitionality goes like this: You'll probably be starting your day early in the morning (oh how nice, the sun is so faithful and always rise around 6am and sets at around 6 am - so winter doesn't rip you off the sunshine). Enough for the blabbing, let's start the places I recommend you visiting.
6 Places (and more) you can't miss
Places in Bangkok can nowadsys within reach, meaning that with the service of sky train (BTS-blue lines) and underground train (MRT-red line) you can reach the following destination in less than an hour, independent of where you are (of course provided that you are staying near the city centre: Bkk city centre's map )
1. Grand Palace - a MUST-SEE for everybody
2. Wat Pra Kaew (and many other Wats)
3. The National Museum - The largest museum in Southeast Asia!
4. Traditional Thai Puppet Theatre (Joe Louis)
Recently received The Best Performance Award at the 12th World Festival of Puppet Art 2008. The festival was held in Prague, Czech Republic, where about 40 countries participated.
A similar show from the same group was awarded the first prize in "Traditional Performance" category in 2006.
5. Chatuchak (or Jay-Jay) Market - The world's largest weekend martket!
6. Jim Thompson's House
Eat out
Due to a wide range of prices on offered, this section is divided into expensive, moderate and inexpensive.
Expensive
Salathip (THAI)
Salathip, on the river terrace of the Shangri-La Hotel, is arguably Bangkok’s most romantic Thai restaurant. Classical music and traditional cuisine are superbly presented under aging, carved teak pavilions perched over a lotus pond and overlooking the river (there are also air-conditioned dining rooms). Dishes are skillfully prepared and presented artfully. Set menus are a good initiation into Thai cuisine and feature a range of courses. Here’s an example: Thai spring rolls, pomelo salad with chicken, a spicy seafood soup, snapper with chili sauce, and your choice of Thai curries. There is live music nightly as well as Thai dancing and a culture show.
Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu (overlooking Chao Phraya River, near Taksin Bridge).&02236-7777.
Reservations recommended. Main courses 200B–450B ($4.55–$10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30pm. Saphan Taksin BTS station.
Benjarong (THAI)
You’ll want to get dressed up for this elegant dining
room, named for the exquisite five-color pottery once reserved exclusively for
the royal family. Benjarong’s fine Thai cuisine focuses on the five basic flavors of
Thai cooking (salty, bitter, hot, sweet, and sour) in traditional “royal” dishes.
While their a la carte menu is extensive, the most popular dishes are the sweet
red curry crab claws and the exotic grilled fish with black beans in banana leaves.
The illustrated menu will help you navigate your way through the choices and
whet your appetite. For after-dinner treats, the kong wan is an ornate selection
of typical Thai desserts—distinctive, light, and not too sweet.
The Dusit Thani, Rama IV Rd. (corner of Silom Rd. and Rama IV Rd.).&02236-0450. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–600B ($4.10–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm; closed for lunch Sat–Sun. Sala Daeng BTS station.
Biscotti (ITALIAN)
One of the hottest spots for power lunches and impressive dinners, the Four Seasons Hotel’s upscale Biscotti features creative and flavorful modern recipes, dishes like wood-oven pizza with lobster tail and forest mushrooms, or fabulous focaccia mascarpone. For such fine dining, the setting is wonderfully open and informal, a contemporary dining room that’s conducive to wine and laughter.
In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.).&02251-6127. Reservations necessary. Main courses 350B–1,000B ($7.95–$23). Daily 6–10:30am, noon–2:30pm, and 6–10:30pm. AE, DC, MC, V. Ratchadamri BTS station.
The Chinese Restaurant (CHINESE)
Small dining nooks partitioned with crackled glass panels let in light but allow for privacy and intimacy. But the decor isn’t the only thing contemporary here. The menu definitely goes for the nontraditional—while shark’s fin and bird’s nest are available (what self-respecting Chinese restaurant can omit these?)—the rest of it is a gastronomic storybook of live fish (the house specialty), baked lobster, and a highly recommended steamed crab with Chinese wine—aromatic and sumptuous. Nice, New Age music complements the modern edge here. A generic name, but definitely not a
generic restaurant.
Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. & 02254-1234. Reservations recommended. Main courses 150B–900B ($3.65–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm. 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.
Le Banyan (FRENCH)
A spreading banyan tree on the edge of the gardenlike grounds inspires the name. The upscale dining area is warm in tone, furnished with sisal matting and white clapboard walls adorned with Thai carvings, old photos, and prints of early Bangkok. The house special is a dish for two: pressed duck with goose liver, shallots, wine, and Armagnac to make the sauce. Other fine choices include a rack of lamb a la Provençal and salmon with lemongrass. There are daily specials and a list of fine wines. If you come on foot, you’ll run the gauntlet of all the girly bars at the entrance of the soi, but find this little upscale gem and enjoy an evening of fine dining and effusive service.
59 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (1 block south of Sukhumvit Rd.).&02253-5556. Reservations recommended. Main courses 350B–1,440B ($11–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–10pm. 10-min. walk from Nana BTS station.
Maha Naga (THAI/WESTERN FUSION)
Newly opened, classy Maha Naga is an oasis of luxury Thai dining in the heart of the Sukhumvit area. The name means, “big snake” or “dragon,” and refers to the stylistic caps of many Thai temple roofs that denote prosperity, and the restaurant design is quite special. A fountain courtyard surrounded by high-peaked, lavishly decorated, and air-conditioned Thai pavilions makes for a quiet, romantic evening or a fun
night for private groups. The food is delicious, a bold marriage of Thai and Western traditions in unique dishes like pork chops with spicy Thai som tam (papaya salad) flavor, whole lobster done in a chili sauce, or imported New Zealand grilled filet with Thai spice and mint. Elsewhere, fusion dishes come out rather bland, but the unique fare at Maha Naga breaks new ground.
2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongteoy, Bangkok 10110 &02662-3060. Reservations recommended. Main courses 300B–800B ($7.30–$20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. A 10-min. walk south from Phrom Pong BTS station.
Shin Daikoku (JAPANESE)
With a track record of over 30 years as the home away from home for the many Japanese expatriates in Bangkok, Shin Daikoku serves delicious and authentic Japanese dishes, from hot apps and noodle dishes like Soba and Udon, to sushi, sashimi and even teppanyaki steaks. Set in a quiet neighborhood off Sukhumvit (near the Asok skytrain stop) the restaurant is a sprawling compound of private tatami (mattress) rooms, and an open dining area surrounds a cavernous indoor garden and a pond full of koi (Japanese carp). Female staff wear cotton yukata (summer kimonos) and pad around politely, hovering over every detail of the meal. The roaring laughter and shouts of, “Kampai!” from behind the painted, paper shoji screens of private rooms tells you that they’re doing it right here. A la carte dishes are small and rather expensive, but they’re worth it. And they have good sushi and sashimi sets. Order some sake, take your shoes off, wrap your tie around your head, and belt out a hearty “Kampai!”
32/8 Soi Wattana, Sukhumvit 19 Klongtoey (a 5-min. walk down Soi 19 from Asok BTS station and on left after the first intersecting road, Wattana).& 02254-9981. Reservations for big groups only. Main course 100B–1,600B ($2.45–$39). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10:30pm. Asok BTS station.
Spasso (ITALIAN)
Spasso is as well known as a nightlife spot as it is for Italian cuisine. A hip and classy place, the bar is always hoppin’ and there is often live music, even people waiting in line, at this artsy modern trattoria with fine decor. The food is a treat: Start with one of their antipastos featuring fine imported treats like carpaccio or smoked salmon, and then choose from their fine pastas, some, like the fusilli with chilis and shrimp, done in a modified Thai style. Thin-crust pizza fans will find a dozen combos, all made with fresh ingredients and baked in a brick oven. Local bands start at around 9:30pm, and the dancing starts not long after.
In the Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd.&02254-1234. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 300B–820B ($5–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm, and 7–10:30pm (kitchen closes, but disco stays on). 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.
Spice Market (THAI)
The theatrical decor reflects the name: Burlap spice sacks, ceramic pots, and glass jars set in dark-wood cabinets around the dining area playfully re-create the mercantile feel of a traditional Thai shop house. The food is artfully presented, authentically spiced, and extraordinarily delicious, with featured regional specialties for a great way to sample dishes from places you may or may not be traveling to in the kingdom. House specialties include a tasty Miengkham appetizer of coconut, dried shrimp, nuts, and chilis that you assemble yourself, rolling ingredients in a leaf for a tasty little treat. For entrees, try the poo nim phad prig (soft-shell crab deep-fried with chili and peppercorn) or siew ngap (red curry with roasted duck in coconut milk). The menu’s “chili rating” guarantees that spices are tempered to your palate. Sunday brunches here and at the Four Seasons’ other fine dining outlets are quite popular.
In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.).&02251-6127. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–450B ($4.40–$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Ratchadamri BTS station.
Moderate
Harmonique (THAI)
A nice little find, Harmonique is set in the courtyard of a century-old mansion and just oozes character. A great stop if touring the riverfront or visiting the antiques stores of nearby River City by day. You enter Harmonique through the crook of a dangling banyan tree, and there is courtyard seating as well as small open-air dining areas, each like a small museum of Thai antiques. The cuisine is Thai, tailored to Western tastes, but it’s all still very good—the tom yam with fish is delicious, served only as spicy as you like and with enormous chunks of fish. The sizzling grilled seafood platter is nice and garlicky (chilis on the side). They also feature good Western desserts like brownies, great with a cool tea on a hot day and an atmospheric spot to relax.
22 Chaoren Krung (New Rd.) Soi 34.& 02630-6270. Main courses 70B–200B ($1.70–$4.90). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Saphan Taksin BTS station.
Anna’s Café (THAI)
Anna’s Café, named for the governess-cum-cultural diplomat of “Anna and the King” fame, is a great hideaway just a short walk from busy Silom. Anna’s serves good Thai and familiar Western cuisine, a comfortable choice all around. I had a green curry with chicken, not too spicy and not too expensive, and the cool courtyard was just the right place to rest from the city heat. In the evening, it’s all candlelight and romance.
114 Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., Bangkok (off Silom Rd. near Saladaeng BTS station) &02632-0623. Main courses 90B–230B ($2.20–$5.60) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Somboon Seafood
This one’s for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food. Packed nightly, you’ll still be able to find a table (the place is huge). The staff is extremely friendly—between them and the picture menu, you’ll be able to order the best dishes and have the finest recommendations.
Peruse the large aquariums outside to see all the live seafood options like prawn, fishes, lobsters, and crabs (guaranteed freshness). The house specialty, chili crab curry, is especially good, as is the tom yang goong soup (spiced to individual taste).
169/7–11 Surawongse Rd. (just across from the Peugeot building).&02233-3104. Reservations not necessary.
Seafood at market prices (about 800B/$18 for 2). No credit cards. Daily 4–11pm.
The Mango Tree (THAI)
In a lovely 80-year-old Siamese restaurant house with its own tropical garden, Mango Tree offers a quiet retreat from the hectic Patpong area. Live traditional music and classical Thai decorative touches fill the house with charm, and the attentive staff serves well-prepared dishes from all regions of the country. Their mild, green chicken curry and their crispy spring rolls are both excellent—but the menu is extensive, so feel free to experiment. Only trouble is, the food isn’t exactly authentic, but it’s still quite good.
37 Soi Tantawan, Bangrak (off west end of Surawong Rd., across from Tawana Ramada Hotel).&02236-2820. Reservations recommended. Main courses 90B–350B ($2.20–$8.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–12am. 10-min. walk from Sala Daeng BTS station.
Le Dalat (VIETNAMESE)
Le Dalat’s fine food and lovely garden setting make for a charming evening. The restaurant is casual and understatedly elegant, housed in an old Thai house done up in Vietnamese and Chinese antiques. The excellent food is prepared by Vietnamese-trained Thai chefs. Go for the bi guon (spring rolls with herbs and pork), chao tom (pounded shrimp laced on ground sugarcane in a basket of fresh noodles), and cha ra (fresh filet of grilled fish). In nice weather, you’ll enjoy dining in the gracefully landscaped outdoor garden. A very highly recommended restaurant. Don’t miss a visit to the men’s room to see their unique collection of odd erotic wall art.
14 Sukhumvit Soi 23.&02661-7967 (or at 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 [north of Sukhumvit Rd. near Asok BTS station] &02258-4192). Reservations recommended at dinner. Main courses 150B–650B ($3.65–$16). AE,
DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.
Lemongrass (THAI)
Nouvelle Thai cuisine tailored to the Western tastes is the specialty of this pleasant restaurant. Just a short walk from the skytrain (near Phrom Pong) and just across from the hulking Emporium Shopping Center, Lemongrass is set in a small Thai mansion handsomely converted and furnished with antiques and a visit here makes it easy to forget busy Bangkok outside. Try house favorites pomelo salad or chicken satay. Also excellent is the tom yang kung (a spicy sweet-and-sour prawn soup with ginger shoots), and the lemongrass chicken is tender and juicy.
5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (south of Sukhumvit Rd. on Soi 24). & 02258-8637. Reservations highly recommended.Main courses 120B–550B $2.90–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 6–11pm. Phrom Pong
BTS station.
L’Opera (ITALIAN)
With its sister restaurant in Vientiane, Laos, L’Opera Bangkok has been hosting visitors and expats since they first opened in the 1970s, when Soi 39 was but a dusty little alley with cows grazing out front. Now it’s a sophisticated enclave and they’ve got the formula just right, dim lights in a glassed-in pavilion, cool jazz in the air, and good, affordable Italian. Come with friends and fill the table. We had biscotti appetizers followed by a decadent seafood salad. For a main course, go for the fresh fish done as you like or any of the grilled items or fine pastas. I had a delicious squid-ink linguini and clams — not to be missed.
53 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Klongtoe Bangkok.&02258-5606. Main courses 200B–880B ($4.90–$22). AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Near Phrom Pong BTS station.
Inexpensive
May Kaidee (VEGETARIAN/THAI)
Find this place. It’s my favorite restaurant in Thailand. Don’t come for atmosphere—it’s more or less tables in a little alleyway—but bring your appetite for healthy and delicious Thai vegetarian dishes. Ms. May (pronounced My) has developed a real following, as much for her wry smile and kindness as for the great curries and soups she serves. The best massaman curry in Thailand and an array of dishes from sweet green curry to good stir-fries come with your choice of white or a unique short-grained brown rice. For dessert, don’t pass-up the black sticky-rice with mango. May has a good cookbook for sale and also offers cooking classes.
At the eastern terminus of Khao San Rd. in a small alley behind the first row of buildings (behind Burger King in fact; ask around—everyone knows this place) & 02629-4839. Main course 60B–120B ($1.50–$3.65). Cash only. Daily 7am–10pm.
Cabbages & Condoms (THAI)
Here’s a theme restaurant with a purpose. Opened by local hero Mechai Viravaidya, founder of the Population & Community Development Association, the restaurant helps fund population control, AIDS awareness, and a host of rural development programs. Set in a large compound, the two-story restaurant has air-conditioned indoor dining—but if you sit on the garden terrace, you’re in a fairyland of twinkling lights: quite romantic.
Share a whole fish done as you like or try the kai hor bai teoy (fried boneless chicken wrapped in pandan leaves with a dark sweet soy sauce for dipping). There’s also a large selection of vegetable and bean curd entrees. Before you leave, be sure to check out the gift shop’s whimsical condom-related merchandise. The restaurant hands out condoms instead of dinner mints.
10 Sukhumvit Soi 12.&02229-4610. Reservations recommended. 70B–200B ($1.60–$4.55). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS station.
Crepes & Co (EUROPEAN)
Popular among Bangkok foreign residents (and their kids), this is the place to satisfy that sweet tooth. Crepes & Co. serves them up light and fluffy and filled with any of dozens of combinations, both savory and sweet—all of them delicious. They also serve good Mediterranean main courses. Everything is excellent. They have great coffee and a good selections of tea.
18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12. & 02653-3990. Reservations recommended. Main courses 100B–300B ($2.30–$6.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 8am–midnight. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS stationn.
Dosa King (INDIAN/VEGETARIAN)
What is a Dosa, you ask? It’s a Punjabi dish of curry or other savory filling folded into a large, lentil and flour tortilla or crepe (depending on your orientation) and served with coconut or coriander sauce. Very tasty and all 100% vegetarian, a comfort for some. Dosa king does have other traditional Indian dishes, but stick with the house special and a enjoy a quick, healthy meal for very little while trudging along Sukhumvit.
265/1 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Bangkok 10110 &02651-1700. Main courses 65B–135B ($1.60–$3.30) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Near Asok BTS station.
Source: Frommer's Thailand
Relax after a busy day
So, my raitionality goes like this: You'll probably be starting your day early in the morning (oh how nice, the sun is so faithful and always rise around 6am and sets at around 6 am - so winter doesn't rip you off the sunshine). Enough for the blabbing, let's start the places I recommend you visiting.
6 Places (and more) you can't miss
Places in Bangkok can nowadsys within reach, meaning that with the service of sky train (BTS-blue lines) and underground train (MRT-red line) you can reach the following destination in less than an hour, independent of where you are (of course provided that you are staying near the city centre: Bkk city centre's map )
1. Grand Palace - a MUST-SEE for everybody
2. Wat Pra Kaew (and many other Wats)
3. The National Museum - The largest museum in Southeast Asia!
4. Traditional Thai Puppet Theatre (Joe Louis)
Recently received The Best Performance Award at the 12th World Festival of Puppet Art 2008. The festival was held in Prague, Czech Republic, where about 40 countries participated.
A similar show from the same group was awarded the first prize in "Traditional Performance" category in 2006.
5. Chatuchak (or Jay-Jay) Market - The world's largest weekend martket!
6. Jim Thompson's House
Eat out
Due to a wide range of prices on offered, this section is divided into expensive, moderate and inexpensive.
Expensive
Salathip (THAI)
Salathip, on the river terrace of the Shangri-La Hotel, is arguably Bangkok’s most romantic Thai restaurant. Classical music and traditional cuisine are superbly presented under aging, carved teak pavilions perched over a lotus pond and overlooking the river (there are also air-conditioned dining rooms). Dishes are skillfully prepared and presented artfully. Set menus are a good initiation into Thai cuisine and feature a range of courses. Here’s an example: Thai spring rolls, pomelo salad with chicken, a spicy seafood soup, snapper with chili sauce, and your choice of Thai curries. There is live music nightly as well as Thai dancing and a culture show.
Shangri-La Hotel, 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu (overlooking Chao Phraya River, near Taksin Bridge).&02236-7777.
Reservations recommended. Main courses 200B–450B ($4.55–$10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30pm. Saphan Taksin BTS station.
Benjarong (THAI)
You’ll want to get dressed up for this elegant dining
room, named for the exquisite five-color pottery once reserved exclusively for
the royal family. Benjarong’s fine Thai cuisine focuses on the five basic flavors of
Thai cooking (salty, bitter, hot, sweet, and sour) in traditional “royal” dishes.
While their a la carte menu is extensive, the most popular dishes are the sweet
red curry crab claws and the exotic grilled fish with black beans in banana leaves.
The illustrated menu will help you navigate your way through the choices and
whet your appetite. For after-dinner treats, the kong wan is an ornate selection
of typical Thai desserts—distinctive, light, and not too sweet.
The Dusit Thani, Rama IV Rd. (corner of Silom Rd. and Rama IV Rd.).&02236-0450. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–600B ($4.10–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm; closed for lunch Sat–Sun. Sala Daeng BTS station.
Biscotti (ITALIAN)
One of the hottest spots for power lunches and impressive dinners, the Four Seasons Hotel’s upscale Biscotti features creative and flavorful modern recipes, dishes like wood-oven pizza with lobster tail and forest mushrooms, or fabulous focaccia mascarpone. For such fine dining, the setting is wonderfully open and informal, a contemporary dining room that’s conducive to wine and laughter.
In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.).&02251-6127. Reservations necessary. Main courses 350B–1,000B ($7.95–$23). Daily 6–10:30am, noon–2:30pm, and 6–10:30pm. AE, DC, MC, V. Ratchadamri BTS station.
The Chinese Restaurant (CHINESE)
Small dining nooks partitioned with crackled glass panels let in light but allow for privacy and intimacy. But the decor isn’t the only thing contemporary here. The menu definitely goes for the nontraditional—while shark’s fin and bird’s nest are available (what self-respecting Chinese restaurant can omit these?)—the rest of it is a gastronomic storybook of live fish (the house specialty), baked lobster, and a highly recommended steamed crab with Chinese wine—aromatic and sumptuous. Nice, New Age music complements the modern edge here. A generic name, but definitely not a
generic restaurant.
Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd. & 02254-1234. Reservations recommended. Main courses 150B–900B ($3.65–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm. 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.
Le Banyan (FRENCH)
A spreading banyan tree on the edge of the gardenlike grounds inspires the name. The upscale dining area is warm in tone, furnished with sisal matting and white clapboard walls adorned with Thai carvings, old photos, and prints of early Bangkok. The house special is a dish for two: pressed duck with goose liver, shallots, wine, and Armagnac to make the sauce. Other fine choices include a rack of lamb a la Provençal and salmon with lemongrass. There are daily specials and a list of fine wines. If you come on foot, you’ll run the gauntlet of all the girly bars at the entrance of the soi, but find this little upscale gem and enjoy an evening of fine dining and effusive service.
59 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (1 block south of Sukhumvit Rd.).&02253-5556. Reservations recommended. Main courses 350B–1,440B ($11–$35). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–10pm. 10-min. walk from Nana BTS station.
Maha Naga (THAI/WESTERN FUSION)
Newly opened, classy Maha Naga is an oasis of luxury Thai dining in the heart of the Sukhumvit area. The name means, “big snake” or “dragon,” and refers to the stylistic caps of many Thai temple roofs that denote prosperity, and the restaurant design is quite special. A fountain courtyard surrounded by high-peaked, lavishly decorated, and air-conditioned Thai pavilions makes for a quiet, romantic evening or a fun
night for private groups. The food is delicious, a bold marriage of Thai and Western traditions in unique dishes like pork chops with spicy Thai som tam (papaya salad) flavor, whole lobster done in a chili sauce, or imported New Zealand grilled filet with Thai spice and mint. Elsewhere, fusion dishes come out rather bland, but the unique fare at Maha Naga breaks new ground.
2 Sukhumvit Soi 29, Klongteoy, Bangkok 10110 &02662-3060. Reservations recommended. Main courses 300B–800B ($7.30–$20). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. A 10-min. walk south from Phrom Pong BTS station.
Shin Daikoku (JAPANESE)
With a track record of over 30 years as the home away from home for the many Japanese expatriates in Bangkok, Shin Daikoku serves delicious and authentic Japanese dishes, from hot apps and noodle dishes like Soba and Udon, to sushi, sashimi and even teppanyaki steaks. Set in a quiet neighborhood off Sukhumvit (near the Asok skytrain stop) the restaurant is a sprawling compound of private tatami (mattress) rooms, and an open dining area surrounds a cavernous indoor garden and a pond full of koi (Japanese carp). Female staff wear cotton yukata (summer kimonos) and pad around politely, hovering over every detail of the meal. The roaring laughter and shouts of, “Kampai!” from behind the painted, paper shoji screens of private rooms tells you that they’re doing it right here. A la carte dishes are small and rather expensive, but they’re worth it. And they have good sushi and sashimi sets. Order some sake, take your shoes off, wrap your tie around your head, and belt out a hearty “Kampai!”
32/8 Soi Wattana, Sukhumvit 19 Klongtoey (a 5-min. walk down Soi 19 from Asok BTS station and on left after the first intersecting road, Wattana).& 02254-9981. Reservations for big groups only. Main course 100B–1,600B ($2.45–$39). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 5:30–10:30pm. Asok BTS station.
Spasso (ITALIAN)
Spasso is as well known as a nightlife spot as it is for Italian cuisine. A hip and classy place, the bar is always hoppin’ and there is often live music, even people waiting in line, at this artsy modern trattoria with fine decor. The food is a treat: Start with one of their antipastos featuring fine imported treats like carpaccio or smoked salmon, and then choose from their fine pastas, some, like the fusilli with chilis and shrimp, done in a modified Thai style. Thin-crust pizza fans will find a dozen combos, all made with fresh ingredients and baked in a brick oven. Local bands start at around 9:30pm, and the dancing starts not long after.
In the Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd.&02254-1234. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses 300B–820B ($5–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm, and 7–10:30pm (kitchen closes, but disco stays on). 5-min. walk from Chit Lom BTS station.
Spice Market (THAI)
The theatrical decor reflects the name: Burlap spice sacks, ceramic pots, and glass jars set in dark-wood cabinets around the dining area playfully re-create the mercantile feel of a traditional Thai shop house. The food is artfully presented, authentically spiced, and extraordinarily delicious, with featured regional specialties for a great way to sample dishes from places you may or may not be traveling to in the kingdom. House specialties include a tasty Miengkham appetizer of coconut, dried shrimp, nuts, and chilis that you assemble yourself, rolling ingredients in a leaf for a tasty little treat. For entrees, try the poo nim phad prig (soft-shell crab deep-fried with chili and peppercorn) or siew ngap (red curry with roasted duck in coconut milk). The menu’s “chili rating” guarantees that spices are tempered to your palate. Sunday brunches here and at the Four Seasons’ other fine dining outlets are quite popular.
In the Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Ratchadamri Rd. (south of Rama I Rd.).&02251-6127. Reservations recommended. Main courses 180B–450B ($4.40–$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Ratchadamri BTS station.
Moderate
Harmonique (THAI)
A nice little find, Harmonique is set in the courtyard of a century-old mansion and just oozes character. A great stop if touring the riverfront or visiting the antiques stores of nearby River City by day. You enter Harmonique through the crook of a dangling banyan tree, and there is courtyard seating as well as small open-air dining areas, each like a small museum of Thai antiques. The cuisine is Thai, tailored to Western tastes, but it’s all still very good—the tom yam with fish is delicious, served only as spicy as you like and with enormous chunks of fish. The sizzling grilled seafood platter is nice and garlicky (chilis on the side). They also feature good Western desserts like brownies, great with a cool tea on a hot day and an atmospheric spot to relax.
22 Chaoren Krung (New Rd.) Soi 34.& 02630-6270. Main courses 70B–200B ($1.70–$4.90). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Saphan Taksin BTS station.
Anna’s Café (THAI)
Anna’s Café, named for the governess-cum-cultural diplomat of “Anna and the King” fame, is a great hideaway just a short walk from busy Silom. Anna’s serves good Thai and familiar Western cuisine, a comfortable choice all around. I had a green curry with chicken, not too spicy and not too expensive, and the cool courtyard was just the right place to rest from the city heat. In the evening, it’s all candlelight and romance.
114 Soi Saladaeng, Silom Rd., Bangkok (off Silom Rd. near Saladaeng BTS station) &02632-0623. Main courses 90B–230B ($2.20–$5.60) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm.
Somboon Seafood
This one’s for those who would sacrifice atmosphere for excellent food. Packed nightly, you’ll still be able to find a table (the place is huge). The staff is extremely friendly—between them and the picture menu, you’ll be able to order the best dishes and have the finest recommendations.
Peruse the large aquariums outside to see all the live seafood options like prawn, fishes, lobsters, and crabs (guaranteed freshness). The house specialty, chili crab curry, is especially good, as is the tom yang goong soup (spiced to individual taste).
169/7–11 Surawongse Rd. (just across from the Peugeot building).&02233-3104. Reservations not necessary.
Seafood at market prices (about 800B/$18 for 2). No credit cards. Daily 4–11pm.
The Mango Tree (THAI)
In a lovely 80-year-old Siamese restaurant house with its own tropical garden, Mango Tree offers a quiet retreat from the hectic Patpong area. Live traditional music and classical Thai decorative touches fill the house with charm, and the attentive staff serves well-prepared dishes from all regions of the country. Their mild, green chicken curry and their crispy spring rolls are both excellent—but the menu is extensive, so feel free to experiment. Only trouble is, the food isn’t exactly authentic, but it’s still quite good.
37 Soi Tantawan, Bangrak (off west end of Surawong Rd., across from Tawana Ramada Hotel).&02236-2820. Reservations recommended. Main courses 90B–350B ($2.20–$8.50). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–12am. 10-min. walk from Sala Daeng BTS station.
Le Dalat (VIETNAMESE)
Le Dalat’s fine food and lovely garden setting make for a charming evening. The restaurant is casual and understatedly elegant, housed in an old Thai house done up in Vietnamese and Chinese antiques. The excellent food is prepared by Vietnamese-trained Thai chefs. Go for the bi guon (spring rolls with herbs and pork), chao tom (pounded shrimp laced on ground sugarcane in a basket of fresh noodles), and cha ra (fresh filet of grilled fish). In nice weather, you’ll enjoy dining in the gracefully landscaped outdoor garden. A very highly recommended restaurant. Don’t miss a visit to the men’s room to see their unique collection of odd erotic wall art.
14 Sukhumvit Soi 23.&02661-7967 (or at 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 [north of Sukhumvit Rd. near Asok BTS station] &02258-4192). Reservations recommended at dinner. Main courses 150B–650B ($3.65–$16). AE,
DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm.
Lemongrass (THAI)
Nouvelle Thai cuisine tailored to the Western tastes is the specialty of this pleasant restaurant. Just a short walk from the skytrain (near Phrom Pong) and just across from the hulking Emporium Shopping Center, Lemongrass is set in a small Thai mansion handsomely converted and furnished with antiques and a visit here makes it easy to forget busy Bangkok outside. Try house favorites pomelo salad or chicken satay. Also excellent is the tom yang kung (a spicy sweet-and-sour prawn soup with ginger shoots), and the lemongrass chicken is tender and juicy.
5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (south of Sukhumvit Rd. on Soi 24). & 02258-8637. Reservations highly recommended.Main courses 120B–550B $2.90–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 6–11pm. Phrom Pong
BTS station.
L’Opera (ITALIAN)
With its sister restaurant in Vientiane, Laos, L’Opera Bangkok has been hosting visitors and expats since they first opened in the 1970s, when Soi 39 was but a dusty little alley with cows grazing out front. Now it’s a sophisticated enclave and they’ve got the formula just right, dim lights in a glassed-in pavilion, cool jazz in the air, and good, affordable Italian. Come with friends and fill the table. We had biscotti appetizers followed by a decadent seafood salad. For a main course, go for the fresh fish done as you like or any of the grilled items or fine pastas. I had a delicious squid-ink linguini and clams — not to be missed.
53 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Klongtoe Bangkok.&02258-5606. Main courses 200B–880B ($4.90–$22). AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Near Phrom Pong BTS station.
Inexpensive
May Kaidee (VEGETARIAN/THAI)
Find this place. It’s my favorite restaurant in Thailand. Don’t come for atmosphere—it’s more or less tables in a little alleyway—but bring your appetite for healthy and delicious Thai vegetarian dishes. Ms. May (pronounced My) has developed a real following, as much for her wry smile and kindness as for the great curries and soups she serves. The best massaman curry in Thailand and an array of dishes from sweet green curry to good stir-fries come with your choice of white or a unique short-grained brown rice. For dessert, don’t pass-up the black sticky-rice with mango. May has a good cookbook for sale and also offers cooking classes.
At the eastern terminus of Khao San Rd. in a small alley behind the first row of buildings (behind Burger King in fact; ask around—everyone knows this place) & 02629-4839. Main course 60B–120B ($1.50–$3.65). Cash only. Daily 7am–10pm.
Cabbages & Condoms (THAI)
Here’s a theme restaurant with a purpose. Opened by local hero Mechai Viravaidya, founder of the Population & Community Development Association, the restaurant helps fund population control, AIDS awareness, and a host of rural development programs. Set in a large compound, the two-story restaurant has air-conditioned indoor dining—but if you sit on the garden terrace, you’re in a fairyland of twinkling lights: quite romantic.
Share a whole fish done as you like or try the kai hor bai teoy (fried boneless chicken wrapped in pandan leaves with a dark sweet soy sauce for dipping). There’s also a large selection of vegetable and bean curd entrees. Before you leave, be sure to check out the gift shop’s whimsical condom-related merchandise. The restaurant hands out condoms instead of dinner mints.
10 Sukhumvit Soi 12.&02229-4610. Reservations recommended. 70B–200B ($1.60–$4.55). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS station.
Crepes & Co (EUROPEAN)
Popular among Bangkok foreign residents (and their kids), this is the place to satisfy that sweet tooth. Crepes & Co. serves them up light and fluffy and filled with any of dozens of combinations, both savory and sweet—all of them delicious. They also serve good Mediterranean main courses. Everything is excellent. They have great coffee and a good selections of tea.
18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12. & 02653-3990. Reservations recommended. Main courses 100B–300B ($2.30–$6.80). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 8am–midnight. 15-min. walk from Asok BTS stationn.
Dosa King (INDIAN/VEGETARIAN)
What is a Dosa, you ask? It’s a Punjabi dish of curry or other savory filling folded into a large, lentil and flour tortilla or crepe (depending on your orientation) and served with coconut or coriander sauce. Very tasty and all 100% vegetarian, a comfort for some. Dosa king does have other traditional Indian dishes, but stick with the house special and a enjoy a quick, healthy meal for very little while trudging along Sukhumvit.
265/1 Sukhumvit Soi 19, Bangkok 10110 &02651-1700. Main courses 65B–135B ($1.60–$3.30) AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Near Asok BTS station.
Source: Frommer's Thailand
Relax after a busy day
Grand Palace
If there is one must-see sight that no visit to Bangkok would be complete without, it's the dazzling, spectacular Grand Palace, undoubtedly the city's most famous landmark. Built in 1782 - and for 150 years the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative seat of government - the Grand Palace of Bangkok is a grand old dame indeed, that continues to have visitors in awe with its beautiful architecture and intricate detail, all of which is a proud salute to the creativity and craftsmanship of Thai people. Within its walls were also the Thai war ministry, state departments, and even the mint. Today, the complex remains the spiritual heart of the Thai Kingdom.
Within the palace complex are several impressive buildings including Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha), which contains the small, very famous and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century. The robes on the Buddha are changed with the seasons by HM The King of Thailand, and forms an important ritual in the Buddhist calendar. Thai Kings stopped living in the palace around the turn of the twentieth century. Nowadays its impressive interior is used for important ceremonial and auspicious occasions like coronations. It also contains the antique throne, used before the Western style one presently in use. Visitors are allow
ed inside the spacious European-style reception room or the Grand Palace Hall (Chakri Maha Prasat, pictured to the left). Then there's the impressive Dusit Hall, rated as perhaps the finest architectural building in this style, and a museum that has information on the restoration of the Grand Palace, scale models and numerous Buddha images.The Inner Court is where the King's royal consorts and daughters lived. The Inner Court was like a small city entirely populated by women and boys under the age of puberty. Even though no royalty currently reside in the inner court, it is still completely closed off to the public. Despite the proximity of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, there's a distinct contrast in style between the very Thai Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the more European inspired design of the Grand Palace (the roof bein
g the main exception). Other highlights are Boromabiman Hall and Amarinda Hall, the original residence of King Rama I and the Hall of Justice.Open: Daily 08:30 - 15:30
Admission: Tickets sold from 8:30 - 15:30 and cost 200 baht. One ticket includes entry to Vimanmek Palace and Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall.
A Piece of Advice: As this is sacred royal ground, visitors are required to
wear long pants or skirts, and shirtsleeves that cover the upper arms. Although, the are some slips in the enforcement of the rules, many have been refused entry for inappropriate dress. And remember—it closes at 3:30pm so don’t show up any later than 2:30pm! Otherwise, you will regret haven't had enough time to admire the beauty of the palace. Having said that, if you arrive at 8:30am when the gates first open, you can have the place to yourself. Are you one of the early birds?
Source: http://www.bangkok.com, Frommer's Thailand
The National Museum
The National Museum is a short (15-min.) walk north of the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is the country’s central treasury of art and archaeology (32 branches are located throughout the provinces). Some of the buildings are themselves works of art. The museum was established and opened in 1874 by King Rama V to exhibit relics from the rule of King Rama IV's rule. 
Today the galleries contain exhibits covering Thai History back to Neolithic times. The museum is located in the former palace of the vice king, next to the Sanam Luang.The collections of the National Museum in Bangkok emphasise on art, archeological and cultural objects which are dated from as early as prehistory up to present day. Three main galleries are:
The Gallery of Thai History located at Sivamokkha-phiman hall with the prehistoric gallery at the rear part of the building.
History of Art and Archeological Collections are presented in two buildings : Dvaravati, Srivijaya and Lopburi in south wing ; and Lanna, Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin are in the north wing.
Galleries of a variety of minor arts and ethnological collections are housed in the old palace buildings, where gold treasure, enamel wares, mother-of-pearl inlay, musical instruments, wood carving, entertainment articles, textiles, ceramics, royal regalia, pal
anquins, old weapons, and stone inscriptions, etc., are exhibited. Royal Cremation ceremonial exhibits and chariots are housed in the cremation chariot hall.The National Museum, Bangkok also has a monumental value in itself as a Palace to the
Front. Many buildings are displayed in original purpose such as Buddhaisawan Chapel built in 1787 to house the Phra Phut Sihing, one of Thailand’s most revered Buddha images, brought here from its original home in Chiang Mai. European and Chinese furnitures are shown in Issaretra- chanusorn, or King Pin Klao resident. Work way back from the Chapel through the main building of the royal palace, where you can see the gold jewelry, some from the royal collections, and the Thai ceramics, including many pieces in the five-color bencharong style. The Old Transportation Room contains ivory carvings, elephant chairs, and royal palanquins. There are also rooms of royal emblems and insignia, stone carvings, wood carvings, costumes, textiles, musical instruments, and Buddhist religious artifacts.
Tamnak Daeng or the Red House, a traditional 18th-century Thai building that was originally the living quarters of Princess Sri Sudarak, sister of King Rama I, furnished in period style with many pieces originally owned by the princess, Sala Samarn - Mukhamat, and other pavillions are examples of Thai architecture.
Open: Wed–Sun 9am–4pm. Free English-language tours: Buddhism culture,Wed 9:30am; art, culture, religion, Thurs 9:30am; call the museum or check a newspaper for more details and current schedule.
Admission 40B ($1).
A Piece of Advice: Being the largest museum of its kind in Sourtheast Asia, please plan carefully to allow yourselves several hours to see the entire collection. It’s also important to notethat the facility is closed on Monday and Tuesday.
Sources: Frommer's Thailand and www.bangkoksite.com
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